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Bahaya Udara Panas Bagi Kelinci

Bahaya Heat Stroke.

 

flam waduh panasnya…..

 

Kelinci tidak dapat bertahan lama hidup pada temperature diatas 34° Celsius, ia dapat dengan mudah terserang heat stroke. Oleh karena itu, apabila kelinci Anda dipelihara di outdoor, Anda harus menyediakan tempat berlindung baginya (shelter) yang jauh dari serangan sinar matahari langsung.

 

Tanda-tanda heat stroke sangatlah nyata bagi kelinci yang menderita heat stroke akan kesulitan dalam bernapas, ia akan terengah-engah (kelinci tidak akan pernah bernapas dari mulut, kecuali saat ia mengalami kesulitan dalam bernapas), kelinci juga akan merenggangkan tubuhnya untuk mendinginkan tubuhnya, dan biasanya akan tampak terkulai lemas. Apabila tidak segera ditangani, dan dipindahkan dari lingkungan yang panas, kelinci akan mengalami pusing, bertingkah aneh, dan dapat mengalami gangguan yang hebat.Kelinci yang memperlihatkan tanda2 kehilangan kesadaran dan mengalami gangguan hebat, biasanya sangatlah dekat dengan kemungkinan mengalami kematian. Segeralah meminta pertolongan pada Vet (dokter hewan) apabila kelinci Anda mengalami hal ini, karena ia akan membutuhkan infus (intravenous fluids) dan cortiicosteroids untuk mencegahnya mati karena shock. Heat stroke adalah kondisi yang sangat berbahaya, yang dapat berakibat sangat fatal ataupun menyebabkan kerusakan yang permanen. Anda harus segera merawat kelinci Anda yang menunjukkan tanda2 awal terserang heat stroke, seperti kesulitan bernapas dan tampak lemas.

 

Penanganan yang dapat Anda berikan pada kelinci yang terserang heat stroke, antara lain adalah dengan mendinginkan temperatur badan kelinci Anda, dengan air suam-suam kuku, atau dengan air yang bertemperatur sesuai suhu ruangan/ room-temperature water (jangan pernah menggunakan air dingin  karena rasa dingin yang datang secara mendadak dapat menyebabkan kelinci shock. Salah satu cara untuk mengecek suhu air adalah dengan menyentuh air menggunakan tangan Anda, sama halnya saat Anda mengecek air yang akan digunakan bayi Anda). Cara kedua adalah dengan membasahi kelinci Anda dengan air tadi, gunakanlah perantara handuk yang sudah dicelupkan ke air. Anda juga dapat membasahi tangan Anda, kemudian belai dan pijatlah kelinci Anda secara perlahan tepat pada bagian bulu dan kulitnya (ulangi terus tindakan ini). Selain cara2 yang telah disebut diatas, Anda juga dapat menyemprotkan air secara perlahan ke kelinci Anda, dan lanjutkan terus dengan memijatnya agar air dapat menyerap ke seluruh bagian bulunya, termasuk juga pada bagian tengkuk dan perut.

 

Pada kondisi ini, berikanlah kelinci Anda makanan2 yang lembut, misalnya sepotong apel ataupun pisang, dan pastikanlah bahwa Anda selalu menyediakan air yang dapat dengan mudah ia raih. Kelinci yang menampakan tanda2 tidak merespon lingkungannya, dapat Anda bantu dengan memberikan air melalui spet (ataupun alat suntik  tanpa jarum), secara perlahan kedalam mulutnya (tepat dibelakang gigi depannya). Hal yang terpenting adalah untuk selalu menjaga suhu badannya dengan cara2 yang telah dijelaskan sebelumnya karena sama halnya dengan manusia. Anda akan merasa nyaman dan suhu tubuh Anda akan turun ke posisi normal ketika kulit Anda basah.

 

Cara lain yang kami pelajari dari para peternak kelinci khususnya saat Australia mengalami musim panas yang sangat menyengat, mereka meletakkan botol soft drink yang telah dibekukan, kemudian meletakkan botol itu didalam kandang2 kelinci. Kelinci2 mereka akan merebahkan tubuhnya diatas botol tersebut (hal ini kebalikan dari fungsi botol penghangat). Sayangnya, cara ini tidaklah berhasil pada kelinci2 kita, karena mereka akan mencoba untuk mengerat botol tersebut, sehingga kita perlu menyingkirkan botol tersebut sesegera mungkin. Cobalah cara ini apabila Anda mau, tapi tetaplah awasi kelinci Anda, pastikanlah bahwa ia tidak mengerat botol tersebut, karena ia akan mengalami problem pencernaan apabila ia memakan plastik ini, yang tentu saja akan menimbulkan masalah yang lebih kompleks lagi.

 

Pikirkan pula dimana letak yang paling nyaman untuk meletakkan kandang kelinci Anda… saat cuaca hangat, meletakkan kandang kelinci dilantai biasanya jauh lebih nyaman dan dingin dibandingkan meletakkannya diatas meja. Lantai adalah tempat yang paling sejuk untuk meletakkan kandangnya, apalagi bila lantai Anda terbuat dari bahan yang sejuk ataupun berbahan kayu.

 

Walapun suhu tubuh kelinci Anda sudah mencapai posisi normal, dan tidak lagi mengalami kesulitan bernapas, Anda tetap harus mengawasinya karena saat ia mengalami serangan heat stroke untuk pertama kalinya, akan ada banyak kemungkinan bahwa suatu saat nanti ia akan mengalami hal yang sama, khususnya dibeberapa hari kedepan. Awasilah kelinci Anda, dan jagalah suhu tubuhnya, pijatlah ia dengan tangan Anda yang telah dibasahi saat Anda melihat tanda2 ia mulai kepanasan.

 

source: http://au.geocities.com/leaswebsite…heatstroke.html

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Tips Memelihara Anak Kelinci

Membeli kelinci kecil memang menyenangkan, selain terlihat imut dan lucu, juga jinak. Bagi sebagian besar anak-anak akan senang bila memperoleh hadiah kelinci kecil tersebut. Tapi ingat … memelihara kelinci kecil gampang gampang susah. Selain suka ngambek makan juga kadang kurang bisa menyesuaikan keadaan dan akibatnya kelinci kecil bisa-bisa mati.

  • Kandang harus selalu bersih, sinar matahari bisa langsung masuk, tidak lembab dan usahakan terbuat dari ram-raman yang memungkinkan sirkulasi udara lancer. Baik terbuat dari bambu maupun kawat ram, yang terpenting landasan untuk pijakan dibuat rata (dari papan juga bisa) asal lobang-lobang untuk memungkinkan kotoran bias terus jatuh kebawah.
  • Ukuran kandang di sekat perekor. Minimal ukuran 50 x 50 cm. Buatkan tempat makanan tersendiri agak tinggi agar tidak terinjak-injak.
  • Bagi kelinci siap beranak siapkan kandang yang lebih luas. Siapkan pula kotak kecil yang diberi rerumputan kering agar hangat dan nyaman untuk persiapan anak kelinci lahir.
  • Makanan bisa dari hijau-hijauan, misalnya : rumput lapangan atau kangkung dan sayur mayur yang lain. Usahakan rumput maupun sayur yang diberikan dalam keadaan layu, kecuali makan sendiri di alam saat dilepas.
  • Jangan dicuci agar kadar air dalam sayuran sangat rendah. Selain makanan tersebut, kelinci juga menyukai ubi jalar maupun pohon, dedak/ bekatul, bungkil kelapa dan sebagainya. Usahakan makanan kelinci tidak satu jenis secara terus menerus. Hal ini akan menyebabkan kelinci manja dan susah makan makanan yang lain.
  • Pemberian makanan yang tepat sore hari kira-kira mulai jam 18.00 sampai pagi hari jam 07.00. (kelinci biasanya makan sepanjang malam). Siang hari boleh diberikan makanan tambahan secukupnya.
  • Sediakan tempat makan tersendiri agar tidak terinjak-injak dan terkena kencingnya sendiri.

Usahakan agar kelinci muda tidak secara terus menerus terkena tanah yang becek dan lembab. Sebab akan terkena penyakit gatal. Semoga trik singkat ini akan bermanfaat bagi penggemar kelinci, khusunya pemula.

Diambil dari berbagai sumber di Internet…

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Pertumbuhan Anak Kelinci

Pernah mengalami kelinci peliharaan kita melahirkan??

Info ini buat yang mempunyai pengalaman pertama kelinci melahirkan.

Bayi kelinci itu di lahirkan dengan keadaan fisik hampir sama seperti anak tikus. Untuk yang pertama kali melihat biasanya geli, tidak berani memegangnya. Selain itu mereka juga buta dan tuli sewaktu pertama kali di lahirkan.

Umur tujuh hari, bulu mereka mulai tumbuh, pola-pola warna mulai terlihat jelas.Memasuki sepuluh atau sebelas hari baru dapat melihat. Nah mereka mulai bisa belajar jalan dan kandang-kadang keluar dari kotaknya ketika umur 18 hari.

Ketika mulai keluar dari kotak, dan sudah bisa berjalan sendiri (walau masih geol-geol) mereka sudah mulai belajar makan sendiri (ikut memakan yang induknya makan).Dan mulai bisa mengikuti tingkah polah induknya.

Tapi kita harus berhati-hati, baby bunies yang baru belajar makan ini, alat pencernaannya belum begitu kuat, jadi pakan yang di berikan jangan terlalu banyak mengandung serat kasar.Sambil belajar makan, anak kelinci masih menyusu pada induknya baik pada malam atau pagi hari.

Baby bunies dapat mulai di sapih setelah benar-benar mampu makan sendiri, biasanya pada umur 56 hari (8 minggu).

Mengingat angka kematian anak kelinci tinggi, maka kita harus lebih berhati-hati menjaga mereka.

Liat video dari you tu be yuks

Nah kalo yang ini sudah umur 8 hari, bulu halusnya sudah mulai keluar 🙂

Salam

Abang Rabbit

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How to Care for Rabbits

Rabbits may be easy to love, but they’re not quite as easy to care for. These lovable, social animals are wonderful companions for people who take the time to learn about their needs. Though providing care for these adorable creatures isn’t difficult, rabbits have a long lifespan—more than 10 years—and many specific care requirements. Anyone considering adding a rabbit to their family should carefully research books and web sites on rabbit care before making a decision. Here are some quick tips to get you started:

Home Sweet Home

Indoors or Outdoors?
Every rabbit owner should know that the safest place for a rabbit to live is indoors. Rabbits should never be kept outdoors! Domestic rabbits are different from their wild relatives—they do not tolerate extreme temperatures well, especially in the hot summer months. Even in a safe enclosure, rabbits are at risk from predators. Merely the sight or sound of a nearby wild animal can cause rabbits so much stress that they can suffer a heart attack and literally die of fear.

Caged or Free to Roam?
Whether you decide to let your rabbit roam free in your entire home or just a limited area, it is important that you make everything rabbit-safe. One little bunny can easily find a whole lot of trouble in an average home. Because rabbits like to chew, make sure that all electrical cords are out of reach and outlets are covered. Chewing through a plugged-in cord can result in severe injury or even death. Their chewing can also result in poisoning if the wrong objects are left in the open or in unlocked low cabinets. Aside from obvious toxins like insecticides, rodenticides, and cleaning supplies, be aware that common plants such as aloe, azalea, Calla lily, Lily of the Valley, philodendron, and assorted plant bulbs can be poisonous to rabbits.

If kept in a cage, rabbits need a lot of room to easily move around. A rabbit’s cage should be a minimum of five times the size of the rabbit. Your rabbit should be able to completely stretch out in his cage and stand up on his hind legs without bumping his head on the top of the cage. Additionally, cages with wire flooring are hard on rabbits’ feet, which do not have protective pads like those of dogs and cats. If you place your rabbit in a wire cage, be sure to layer the floor with cardboard or other material. Place a cardboard box or “rabbit condo” in the cage so the bunny has a comfortable place to hide, and respect your animal’s need for quiet time (rabbits usually sleep during the day and night, becoming playful at dawn and dusk).

When rabbits are kept in a cage, they need to be let out for several hours each day for exercise. Aside from running and jumping, rabbits also enjoy exploring their surroundings. This is an ideal time to play and interact with your rabbit. Make sure that he has a safe area to play and explore.

Bunny Bathrooms

Just like cats, rabbits can easily learn to use a litter box. Place a litter box in the cage to encourage this behavior. If your rabbit roams freely through multiple rooms of your home, it’s a good idea to have litter boxes in several places. Many rabbits enjoy spending time relaxing in their litter box, so make sure that it is of ample size. For bedding (litter), stay away from wood shavings, especially cedar and pine, which may cause liver damage or trigger allergic reactions in rabbits. Also avoid clumping or dusty kitty litters, which can cause serious health problems if eaten. Instead, stick with organic litters made of paper, wood pulp, or citrus. Newspaper can work too, but may not be as absorbent. Be sure to put fresh hay in the litter box daily, as many rabbits like to have a snack while sitting in their litter box.

A Balanced Diet

Rabbits have complex digestive systems, so it’s very important that they receive a proper diet. Many health problems in rabbits are caused by foods that are incompatible with their digestive physiology. A basic rabbit diet should consist of the following foods:

Hay
Rabbits need hay—specifically, Timothy grass hay. Rabbits should have access to a constant supply of this hay, which aids their digestive systems and provides the necessary fiber to help prevent health problems such as hair balls, diarrhea, and obesity. Alfalfa hay, on the other hand, should only be given to adult rabbits in very limited quantities, if at all, because it’s high in protein, calcium, and calories.

Vegetables
In addition to hay, the basic diet of an adult rabbit should consist of leafy, dark green vegetables such as romaine and leaf lettuces, parsley, cilantro, collard greens, arugula, escarole, endive, dandelion greens, and others. Variety is important, so feed your rabbit three different vegetables at a time. When introducing new veggies to a rabbit’s diet, try just one at a time and keep quantities limited.

Fruits and Treats
While hay and vegetables are the basis of a healthy diet, rabbits also enjoy treats. Cartoons and other fictional portrayals of rabbits would lead us to believe that carrots are the basis of a healthy rabbit diet. Many rabbits enjoy carrots, but they are a starchy vegetable and should only be given sparingly as a treat. Other treats your rabbit might enjoy are apples (without stems or seeds), blueberries, papaya, strawberries, pears, peaches, plums, or melon. Extra-sugary fruits like bananas, grapes, and raisins are good too, but should be given on a more limited basis.

Foods to Avoid
With such sensitive digestive systems, there are a number of foods that rabbits should avoid eating. These include iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, cabbage, corn, beans, peas, potatoes, beets, onions, rhubarb, bamboo, seeds, grains, and many others. Also, don’t feed your rabbit chocolate, candy, anything moldy, or most human foods. If you are not sure about a certain food, ask your rabbit’s veterinarian.

Pellets
If you choose to make pellets a part of your rabbit’s diet, it is best to use them as a supplement to the dark green, leafy vegetables, not as a substitute. These pellets should only be given in small quantities (1/8 -1/4 cup per five pounds of body weight per day, spread out over two daily feedings). Also, make sure to purchase Timothy-based pellets. Many brands of rabbit feed contain seeds, corn, and other foods that are too high in calories to be the basis for a healthy rabbit’s diet.

Water
Rabbits should always have an ample supply of fresh water available. Be sure to change your rabbit’s water at least once each day. Water can be kept in a sipper bottle or bowl. If you use a sipper bottle, watch new rabbits to make sure they know how to use the bottles, and clean bottles daily so the tubes don’t get clogged. If you use a bowl, make sure that the bowl is heavy enough to avoid tipping and spilling.

Chew on This

Chewing is part of a rabbit’s natural behavior, but it doesn’t have to be destructive. To keep rabbits active and amused, you may want to put untreated wood blocks or cardboard in their cages. Bowls, balls, and rings made of willow wood are big hits with many rabbits and can be purchased online or in specialty stores. You can also use paper-towel rolls, toilet-paper rolls, and other chewable cardboard materials that can be tossed in the trash once they’ve served their purpose. Avoid objects with sharp edges, loose parts, or soft rubber that rabbits could chew into pieces and swallow.

Handle With Care

Rabbits are fragile animals who must be handled carefully. Their bones are so delicate that the muscles in their powerful hind legs can easily overcome the strength of their skeletons. As a result, if not properly restrained, struggling rabbits can break their own spines.

To pick up your rabbit, place one hand underneath the front of the rabbit and the other hand underneath his back side, lifting him carefully with both hands and bringing him against your body. Never let a rabbit’s body hang free, never lift by the stomach, and never pick a rabbit up by his ears.

Don’t forget that rabbits are prey animals and many will not enjoy being picked up. Be sure to go slowly with your rabbit and practice. Let your rabbit get accustomed to being handled.

Rabbits groom each other around the eyes, ears, top of the nose, top of the head, and down the back, so they’ll enjoy it if you pet them on their heads. Like any animal, each rabbit will have an individual preference about where he likes to be touched. Rabbits lack the ability to vomit or cough up hairballs like cats, so try to remove loose fur when you have the opportunity to do so. Simply petting or brushing your rabbit for a few minutes each day should remove most of the excess fur. Some rabbit breeds, such as angoras, have extra grooming needs because of their distinctive coats.

What’s Up, Doc?

Just like cats and dogs, rabbits need to receive proper medical care, including annual check-ups. While there are plenty of veterinarians who are able to treat cats and dogs, the number of veterinarians able to treat rabbits is much smaller. It is extremely important that any veterinarian treating a rabbit has experience with rabbits. Many veterinarians who treat rabbits will be called “exotics” veterinarians, meaning that they treat a number of non-traditional pets. Make sure that you have a regular, rabbit-savvy veterinarian as well as a listing of emergency clinics in your area that treat rabbits.

Fix That Bunny

Spaying or neutering your rabbit is very important. Aside from preventing unwanted litters of kits, spaying or neutering has health and behavior benefits. Neutering males eliminates the risk of testicular cancer and can reduce aggression and territory-marking behaviors. Female rabbits have extremely high rates of reproductive cancers as they get older, but spaying them can eliminate those potential problems.

I Need a Friend

Rabbits are social animals and most will be much happier as a part of a pair or trio than on their own. If you don’t have a rabbit yet, consider adopting a bonded pair instead of a single rabbit. Most animal shelters and rabbit rescue groups have pairs available for adoption. If you already have a rabbit, you should consider adding another one to the family. Local rabbit groups can usually find a good match for your rabbit and help with the introduction and bonding process.

When thinking about adding a rabbit to your family, please remember that rabbits are not toys and they are typically not appropriate pets for children. Rabbits are complex creatures—socially, psychologically, and physiologically. They require a great deal of special care and supervision. If you make the decision to add rabbits to your family, please don’t buy from a pet store; instead, adopt from your local animal shelter or rabbit adoption group.

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